The road to Dirt N Dust Festival
This week our family packed their trusty old family wagon full to the brim and set off to Julia Creek in North Queensland with the intention of making it to a festival we have been watching with longing and curiosity, the Dirt N Dust Festival.
The Dirt N Dust Festival is 3-day Outback extravaganza, welcoming thousands of tourists who travel on the 1550km Overlander's Way from Townsville to Mt Isa. Brainchild of local citizens for a fun family event at the club one day developed the Dirt N Dust Festival over 18 years into 'an iconic attraction in Outback Queensland'.
Images of athletic sweaty bodies on rodeo and bull rides, bog snorkeling, cow pat throwing and tough international standard triathlon fill our minds with wonder.
Around Goulburn and up through Crookwell in NSW we drove, the road north from here was beautiful. Winding roads and quite a lot of corrugated dirt certainly made us grateful for our mechanic to squeeze us in over Easter for new shock absorbers and CV joints. As we had a full load, the car accentuated every single bump and pothole - which is a lot of bump in 2300km.
We passed by a popular destination for campers called Abercrombie Caves and made a mental note to visit with friends next summer. Lunch in Orange at the Botanical Gardens and kids' adventure playground was a fun surprise. Very much a locals' spot, there were a number of birthday parties in the park and Sunday outings at the Greek-owned cafe whose motto is 'stay calm - and grow a mustache'.
We drove by Wellington Caves, Dubbo and Gilgandra then into Gulargambone. Apart from its great name and impressive corrugated Galah sculptures upon entering the town, it is also the turn off to the nearby Warrumbungle National Park, which we would also like to stop on another trip.
But on this occasion we headed through and rang ahead for accommodation at Lightning Ridge. Although it is dangerous to drive in dusk and through the night, Kevin felt energised and determined to make a bit of distance while the children were so excited. We stayed at Agate St Retreat where our hosts, Rick and Shelley were very friendly and helpful.
Lightning Ridge is an opal mining region famous for its unique black opals. We spent the day following several 'Car Door Tours' around the town. The aim was to follow an explanatory map spotting sites of interest at each colour-coded and numbered car door. The drive was fascinating for us east-coasters and got even more interesting when the locals down one road had uniquely painted car door themselves. We visited old mining shafts, fossicked in rubble and found opal bits much to the children's delight and saw an opal field worth billions of dollars only 20 years ago. We saw fascinating buildings, like a church used in a film set, a hand-built castle from ironstone and a quirky Astronomers' Monument too. One sign to a makeshift home read: Fossicking or Clairvoyant by donation.
A memorable moment at Lightning Ridge that evening was a visit to the hot springs. At 41 degrees we tentatively slipped in and enjoyed a relaxing soak before bedtime. The baths were busy with local families and tourists, a reminder of the differing ways that community socialises.
We stocked up on groceries and were surprised to find that the large supermarket was out of tomatoes - none - not even grape, cherry, roma or regular. Not to worry, we were off to Roma in Queensland - they'd be sure to have some.
We drove out of New South Wales into Queensland cotton country at harvest time. For hundreds of kilometers we saw dry cotton plants harboring fluffs of cotton wool on top, harvesters and transport trucks carrying rolls of 'cotton wool' in rounds the size of large water tanks.
Well, Roma was naed after the first Governor's wife and not roma tomatoes but fortunately we still found some there for our sandwiches. It is a vibrant town that hosts a gas mining industry, road workers, flood workers, health workers and house builders for a growing region. We drove down the Avenue of Bottle Trees that were planted to remember soldiers of World War I.
As there was no accommodation to be found in Roma, we continued on to Mitchell and camped by a beautiful sandy river under the stars. The children said it is the best camping spot ever and wanted to stay longer but a swim, a campfire and an attempt to go fishing Huckleberry Finn style was the best we could do before a hot dry day of long mileage on straight roads with the occasional bounce. We have seen a lot of dry grass, cattle, emus and fluffy clouds.
We stopped at Barcaldine to see the Tree of Knowledge, the oldest tree in town and Longreach which is home to the foundation of Qantas (Queensland and Northern Territory Air Services). We were delighted to see the Queensland Distance Education learning centre too, similar to the New South Wales centre that our children are enrolled in while we are on the road. We carry 4 school bags with us with each child's work that has to be completed and posted each fortnight.
Again we were concerned about traveling on dusk but one man explained that because it was so green, the kangaroos were satisfied elsewhere on the fields and were feeding by the side of the road less often. To crash into a kangaroo on the highway would be disaster for our urban family vehicle.
We made it to Winton on dark, the town where Banjo Paterson wrote 'Waltzing Matilda' and had a well deserved swim at the Matilda Country Tourist and Van Park. Our cabin was alongside a group of enthusiasts who were traveling from Melbourne to Cairns in the 'Shitbox Challenge', a charity car rally that had earned over a million dollars for Cancer research, where all 150 cars had to be bought for under $1000. Sadly, at least 3 cars died each day on the journey much to the disappointment of the 9 support vehicles whose job is was to nurture each vehicle on the pilgrimage.
The best bit at Winton for our family was the Musical Fence which was exactly that, an acoustically prepared fence and supporting drum sets from recycled materials. Our family rendition of Waltzing Matilda was ... memorable.
Heading North, we drove past the billabong where Waltzing Matilda's 'ghost may be heard' and on a by-road to Julia Creek which was freshly graded and a surprisingly smooth drive. That was until 20km out of Julia Creek when we met a roadtrain. These 3 carriage monster trucks stop for noone, not even our family wagon, and a windscreen chip was our casualty.
We are now settled in Julia Creek at the racetrack camping area for the Dirt N Dust Festival. It is 35 degrees in the shade and we are topping up on water regularly. Our youngest are catching green frogs and lizards, Sophie (10) is playing harmonica and Finn (10) has just discovered what cricket feels like in the Aussie sun.
costs involved getting to Dirt N Dust Festival;
Petrol 2300km $490
Food (groceries for 6) $60 per day = $300
Accommodation 2 nights at Agate St Retreat = $190
Camping at Fisherman's Rest, Mitchell = $0
Cabin at Winton Tourist Park = $105
optional extras;
Opal mine tour at Lightning Ridge = $68 family
Musical performance 'Black Queen' at Lightning Ridge = $100 family
Matilda Museum = $50 family